What Naples Gave Me (Besides Jet Lag and Limoncello)

I know it has been some time since my last post, but I just returned from a much-needed two-week vacation in Naples, Italy. I had planned to schedule some posts before I left, but I simply ran out of time. A week before our departure, I received the line edits and feedback from the editor at Grendel Press for Koen: Quills from the Raven’s Nest, and I wanted to complete those before I went, so I wouldn’t have to worry about them. I’m happy to report that I made it, but just. I was still going back and forth with the editor the morning I left. Also, my wife defended her doctoral thesis that Friday and needed to celebrate that, too. It was a lot at once.

While most people return from vacation with souvenirs, photographs, and sunburns, I came back with something better: a notebook full of grimy inspiration and a burning urge to write. I still have the sunburn. Being a redhead, that was impossible to avoid.

Let me say this right up front—Naples is not like most European cities. It doesn’t cater to tourists the way Florence or Vienna does. There’s no polite veneer or curated cobblestone postcard to step into. The grime is real. The desperation is palpable. And for a writer like me, who’s building worlds shaped by shadows and survival, Naples is a goldmine unlike any city I’ve experienced in Europe. I had been there briefly before, but this was a more intimate exploration, and we did it all on foot, neck-deep in the chaos.

Jezelle—my street-smart, knife-wielding, dimension-slipping thief—feels like she could’ve grown up there. The narrow alleyways stacked with noise and drying laundry, the sidewalks crumbling into chaos, the feral energy of the old town marketplaces… it’s all deeply human, unpolished, and unrepentant. There’s a kind of brutal honesty in Naples that I’ve rarely felt elsewhere. The city doesn’t clean itself up to be loved. It dares you to look closer at the human animal, from the grandiose architecture to the overflowing refuse. And if you do, it rewards you with stories.

I spent hours walking the Quartieri Spagnoli, where scooters scream past at full throttle, and kids kick soccer balls under balconies heavy with rust and defiance. I drank espresso next to leathery old men arguing over who got cheated harder by life. I saw graffiti not as artful rebellion but as desperate declarations that there is a voice in the dark. These aren’t just aesthetic details—they’re emotional textures. And they will make their way into my future writing, especially Jezelle’s.

Her world was already one of cracked pavement and shit-filled gutters. But Naples reminded me that grit is more than grime—it’s pride. It’s refusing to vanish just because you don’t sparkle. That’s the kind of resilience I want to lace into every alley Jezelle haunts and every backroom she escapes from.

More importantly, Naples shook me out of my creative rut. I’d been grinding too long without pausing to refill the tank. This trip? It was a power-up. Not relaxing, exactly—but recharging in the way only a city with a soul can be. I wrote in cafes with chipped tables. I plotted twists while dodging broken curbs. I felt the pain of long journeys as we averaged ten miles daily, grinding our feet on cobbles and straining our legs on steps to marvelous views. And somewhere between the chaos and the cannoli, I remembered why I write these stories in the first place.

So thank you, Naples. For the dirt, the danger, the beauty you don’t apologize for. Jezelle and all my future characters, thank you, too. And soon, they’ll return the favor—knife in hand, heart on fire, and grime under their nails.

Cheers!


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Published by scottatirrell

Scott Austin Tirrell loves dark speculative fiction, conjuring isolated worlds where ancient mysteries, the raw power of nature, and the paranormal entwine. His work is steeped in the arcane, drawing from the forgotten corners of history and the unsettling grasp of the supernatural. With a style shaped by Clive Barker, Frank Herbert, and Joe Abercrombie, he crafts narratives that pull ordinary, flawed souls into the extraordinary, where reality frays, shadows lengthen, and the unknown whispers from the void. He has self-published eight books, with Koen set to come out in 2025 under Grendel Press. Residing in Boston with his wife, he draws inspiration from the region’s haunted past and spectral folklore. Scott invites readers to step beyond the veil and into his worlds, where every tale descends into the deeper, darker truths of the human condition.

6 thoughts on “What Naples Gave Me (Besides Jet Lag and Limoncello)

  1. I lived in Naples for three years as a young girl when my father was stationed there. I have such fond memories and do recall the crumbling architecture among the beautiful. There was art everywhere and we had a mile walk home from school in those narrow alleyways. But it was the warmth and generosity of the people that gave me the best three years of my childhood. I’m glad you could see through the grime and peasantry to find Naples’ treasures.

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  2. Naples is a sea-port and what you saw as ‘grimy reality’ is what every genuine sea-port offers. People who live there are not just ‘workers’ but are being exposed all the time to the exotic. It makes a sea-port very different to a mining or industrial town. London used to be like that, and I’m sure that Boston did, too. Before it got ‘cleaned up’, San Francisco undoubtedly was, as well. Had you been to Marseilles, you might have seen the same. And Valparaiso in Chile. I agree that a sea-port has a much more ‘human’ flavour than other types of city; riches and rags rub together and both need each other; smuggling is endemic; everyone knows a lot of other people. Life buzzes there. Glad it renewed you.

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